The opportunity to visit the Saramati range in Kiphire district was opened to me by the Nagaland Beekeeping & Honey Mission (NBHM), Kohima. Nestled in this range are 30 villages and NBHM focuses its interest in 10 villages which have a history of rock bee harvesting. In particular I had to visit Mimi, the village 3rd in line to the international border of India and Myanmar. No written document has been attempted so far on the culture of rock bee harvesting. This ancient art which is accompanied by many legends is passed down orally. NBHM now attempts at a documentation, both visual and print. This penetration of NBHM into the Saramati range will now open the doors to “unimagined opportunities” for the Nagas and for world travellers and researchers. As such, a bee expert from Alaska came all the way to visit Mimi and spent Christmas there, studying the apiculture of the region with great interest.
The roads in Saramati range are by no means rosy and cheery all the way. They are ripped and studded with stones, and creamed with fresh mud when the black topping disappears from sight. The roads are long and narrow, and sometimes precarious. Inside the vehicle one feels like fruit cocktail in an electric blender. The journey gives your whole body a good shake, not only literally but also metaphorically. It shakes your mind from sleep, jerking you from your comfort zone in order to make you confront your very subconscious self. As such, the journey itself is an adventure of a lifetime and that is why, next to my Tawang road trip, I’d rate my Saramati journey as one of the most memorable. Bendangmoa Yimchunger, Team Member in charge of Kiphire district was assigned to be my guide. We set off from Kohima to Pungro by Bolero on 25th Jan, 2011. The next day we hired a Sumo for Mimi. Only vehicles with high clearance (Gypsy, Sumo, Truck) can survive the roads.
I was impressed by the terrain of the region. The mountains are higher than any other region in Nagaland. They are rugged and at times rocky. Saramati itself at 3,848 mtrs above sea level is the highest in Nagaland. The route we took from Pungro to Mimi was via Likimro-Moya, a supposedly shorter road. This road is ideal for rough terrain car rallies; it’s a dream come true for die hard wonder-lust high adventure seekers. Our Sumo broke down near the Likimro hydro electric project site. Thank god for technology, the guys made frantic calls to Pungro for another Sumo. Then this Sumo sunk into a soft mud patch and we spent some time searching for rocks and dry mud to pull it out. At the gate of Mimi, the Sumo couldn’t go further due to mud clogging. So we walked uphill in the cold with a torch light. The altitude made me slightly dizzy but otherwise I endured everything well. The reason for my resilience? I was already prepared weeks ahead, both mentally and spiritually for the adventure trip. I disciplined myself by abstaining from unwholesome foods; I prayed for health and stamina, for favour with people, for divine wisdom and understanding and expansion of the mind for natural and supernatural possibilities.
In Mimi, we sat around the fire place, collecting precious information from expert rock-bee hunters right into the night. And on our return to Pungro, we took the Salomi road. We travelled past Fakim wildlife sanctuary, known for its conservation of highly endangered birds such as the Hornbill and the Tragopan. This sanctuary has the potential of turning into a rare destination for researchers and serious scholars. Trekking expeditions to Saramati finds route via Thanamir village in the same range. Trekking is not a one day affair like the one to Dzukou valley. One has to walk a whole day from Thanamir and then camp overnight at the base camp, and then proceed for a challenging 4 to 5 hour upward climb to Saramati. Countless varieties of Rhododendrons grow in the mount.
My guide Bendangmoa narrated his trekking adventure to Saramati a few years back. Our Chief Minister Mr. Neiphiu Rio, along with other ministers and parliamentary secretaries also went on that same trip. Villagers from nearby accompanied them. As such about 3000 people turned up, as opposed to the expected 400. 20 bags of rice were not sufficient and many had to endure hunger for two days. As for Mr. Niephiu Rio, the climb uphill was so exhausting that by the time he reached the peak, his arms were slumped on two body guards, one on the right and the other on the left. Another body guard pushed him from behind, to make sure he could at least drag his feet till the peak! The story goes that some locals prepared very good rice and maize beer that helped to re-energize the trekking party for a joyous and high-spirited return trip! Indeed, climbing the Saramati is a true achievement.
Before I embarked on this journey, I was confronted with many misapprehensions. People told me it was snowing and that I’d freeze to death. My sister in Dimapur provided me her warmest jacket and muffler, my cousin in Kohima packed for me two warm blankets and woolly socks, a shawl and hot water bag. But I tell you, Kohima was colder by degrees. I learned that the Yimchungers are kind, gentle, soft spoken and highly unpretentious people. They are friendly too, not in an overwhelming or boisterous way, but rather in a sincere and calm way. The women are good cooks, a pleasant surprise.
The terrain in this region is highly interesting. It is the lime belt of Nagaland. Forests are covered by pine trees and dark caves exist on solitary rocks. One can see jungle hens crossing the road at odd times and even hear the sound of deers on the slopes below. Mithuns roam freely. Mimi is supposedly the 3rd international trade centre besides Longwa and Pangsha; but no infra structure exists yet. Border Roads Organisation (BRO) attempted roads to Mimi in the early 80’s but gave up midway. The insurgents of the region gave the labourers a hard time who also had to adapt to the new environ. Many of them fell ill and even lost their lives in the process. To appease the gods, the BRO people built two shrines on the road side. These structures stand strong but the roads show only meagre remnants of black topping. Because of difficult roads, very little development has penetrated into this region. Modern education is at a very infant stage. People still do not realise the importance of a good education. As I’ve observed, there’s much to be done in this region. The prospects are untapped and awaiting its place in this sun; and sons of the soil like Bendangmoa Yimchunger have untold responsibilities. He has the potential to make a popular and influential public leader some day, right from the grass roots.
As for me, this visit to the Saramati region had expanded my mind to many human possibilities. Travelling these roads, I feel I can conquer any road in the world. Besides attempting to write down oral histories of various communities, I already feel a sense of accomplishment with far reaching implications. There is no end to service of humankind and NBHM has already made a head start in this direction.
The roads in Saramati range are by no means rosy and cheery all the way. They are ripped and studded with stones, and creamed with fresh mud when the black topping disappears from sight. The roads are long and narrow, and sometimes precarious. Inside the vehicle one feels like fruit cocktail in an electric blender. The journey gives your whole body a good shake, not only literally but also metaphorically. It shakes your mind from sleep, jerking you from your comfort zone in order to make you confront your very subconscious self. As such, the journey itself is an adventure of a lifetime and that is why, next to my Tawang road trip, I’d rate my Saramati journey as one of the most memorable. Bendangmoa Yimchunger, Team Member in charge of Kiphire district was assigned to be my guide. We set off from Kohima to Pungro by Bolero on 25th Jan, 2011. The next day we hired a Sumo for Mimi. Only vehicles with high clearance (Gypsy, Sumo, Truck) can survive the roads.
I was impressed by the terrain of the region. The mountains are higher than any other region in Nagaland. They are rugged and at times rocky. Saramati itself at 3,848 mtrs above sea level is the highest in Nagaland. The route we took from Pungro to Mimi was via Likimro-Moya, a supposedly shorter road. This road is ideal for rough terrain car rallies; it’s a dream come true for die hard wonder-lust high adventure seekers. Our Sumo broke down near the Likimro hydro electric project site. Thank god for technology, the guys made frantic calls to Pungro for another Sumo. Then this Sumo sunk into a soft mud patch and we spent some time searching for rocks and dry mud to pull it out. At the gate of Mimi, the Sumo couldn’t go further due to mud clogging. So we walked uphill in the cold with a torch light. The altitude made me slightly dizzy but otherwise I endured everything well. The reason for my resilience? I was already prepared weeks ahead, both mentally and spiritually for the adventure trip. I disciplined myself by abstaining from unwholesome foods; I prayed for health and stamina, for favour with people, for divine wisdom and understanding and expansion of the mind for natural and supernatural possibilities.
In Mimi, we sat around the fire place, collecting precious information from expert rock-bee hunters right into the night. And on our return to Pungro, we took the Salomi road. We travelled past Fakim wildlife sanctuary, known for its conservation of highly endangered birds such as the Hornbill and the Tragopan. This sanctuary has the potential of turning into a rare destination for researchers and serious scholars. Trekking expeditions to Saramati finds route via Thanamir village in the same range. Trekking is not a one day affair like the one to Dzukou valley. One has to walk a whole day from Thanamir and then camp overnight at the base camp, and then proceed for a challenging 4 to 5 hour upward climb to Saramati. Countless varieties of Rhododendrons grow in the mount.
My guide Bendangmoa narrated his trekking adventure to Saramati a few years back. Our Chief Minister Mr. Neiphiu Rio, along with other ministers and parliamentary secretaries also went on that same trip. Villagers from nearby accompanied them. As such about 3000 people turned up, as opposed to the expected 400. 20 bags of rice were not sufficient and many had to endure hunger for two days. As for Mr. Niephiu Rio, the climb uphill was so exhausting that by the time he reached the peak, his arms were slumped on two body guards, one on the right and the other on the left. Another body guard pushed him from behind, to make sure he could at least drag his feet till the peak! The story goes that some locals prepared very good rice and maize beer that helped to re-energize the trekking party for a joyous and high-spirited return trip! Indeed, climbing the Saramati is a true achievement.
Before I embarked on this journey, I was confronted with many misapprehensions. People told me it was snowing and that I’d freeze to death. My sister in Dimapur provided me her warmest jacket and muffler, my cousin in Kohima packed for me two warm blankets and woolly socks, a shawl and hot water bag. But I tell you, Kohima was colder by degrees. I learned that the Yimchungers are kind, gentle, soft spoken and highly unpretentious people. They are friendly too, not in an overwhelming or boisterous way, but rather in a sincere and calm way. The women are good cooks, a pleasant surprise.
The terrain in this region is highly interesting. It is the lime belt of Nagaland. Forests are covered by pine trees and dark caves exist on solitary rocks. One can see jungle hens crossing the road at odd times and even hear the sound of deers on the slopes below. Mithuns roam freely. Mimi is supposedly the 3rd international trade centre besides Longwa and Pangsha; but no infra structure exists yet. Border Roads Organisation (BRO) attempted roads to Mimi in the early 80’s but gave up midway. The insurgents of the region gave the labourers a hard time who also had to adapt to the new environ. Many of them fell ill and even lost their lives in the process. To appease the gods, the BRO people built two shrines on the road side. These structures stand strong but the roads show only meagre remnants of black topping. Because of difficult roads, very little development has penetrated into this region. Modern education is at a very infant stage. People still do not realise the importance of a good education. As I’ve observed, there’s much to be done in this region. The prospects are untapped and awaiting its place in this sun; and sons of the soil like Bendangmoa Yimchunger have untold responsibilities. He has the potential to make a popular and influential public leader some day, right from the grass roots.
As for me, this visit to the Saramati region had expanded my mind to many human possibilities. Travelling these roads, I feel I can conquer any road in the world. Besides attempting to write down oral histories of various communities, I already feel a sense of accomplishment with far reaching implications. There is no end to service of humankind and NBHM has already made a head start in this direction.
Written by: Susan Waten, HAWA, Dimapur
